Serra do Cipó
Brazil's sport climbing paradise
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| Cipó's Limestone Massif |
..from the author
Welcome everyone. Here you're going to find a description of the best sport climbing place in Brazil. The words here were written by a local climber with the intention to spread worldwide this amazing place. Feel free to email me to ask for any more betas.
The region is famous for outdoor activities: several waterfalls, hiking and cycling. The village is quite small and offers a good variety of lodging and food places for every pocket. It is located 100km from the nearest big city: Belo Horizonte; and 80km from the closest international airport: Confins (CNF).
Introduction
Serra do Cipó is the sport climbing paradise in Brazil. It has all the features of a perfect climbing spot: beautiful sightseen, routes quantity, height and great variety of movements/holds/styles; plenty lodging choices, rest days activities, good food and friendly people. All this is enjoyable the entire year!The region is famous for outdoor activities: several waterfalls, hiking and cycling. The village is quite small and offers a good variety of lodging and food places for every pocket. It is located 100km from the nearest big city: Belo Horizonte; and 80km from the closest international airport: Confins (CNF).
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Climber:Alesandra Assunção
Route: Lamúrias de um Viciado 6c+
Sector: Lamúrias
Photographer: Alexandre Ferreira (xande.bh on instagram)
Comment: Thats one of the most classic routes from Serra do Cipó. A beatiful long sustained 6c+
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If you`re thinking of getting a nice climbing trip and still haven't decide where to go, I'm sure that in the end of this post you will have zero doubt about your next destination: BRAZIL.
The first things that will come to your mind when thinking about climbing in Brazil are the granite walls shown on every photo from Rio de Janeiro. It is inevitable, everybody wants to go to Rio, not only climbers. All those huge granite walls surrounded by beautiful beaches and nice night life make it clearly understandable that your first days in Brazil will be there. Rock climbing in Rio is an outstanding experience, there are several multipitch routes that can`t be missed, but, when it comes to sport climbing, Serra do Cipó is far much better. You have a lot more sectors and routes in a short walking distance and... It's limestone!
The first things that will come to your mind when thinking about climbing in Brazil are the granite walls shown on every photo from Rio de Janeiro. It is inevitable, everybody wants to go to Rio, not only climbers. All those huge granite walls surrounded by beautiful beaches and nice night life make it clearly understandable that your first days in Brazil will be there. Rock climbing in Rio is an outstanding experience, there are several multipitch routes that can`t be missed, but, when it comes to sport climbing, Serra do Cipó is far much better. You have a lot more sectors and routes in a short walking distance and... It's limestone!
Arrival, Lodging and Food
So let say you got to Brazil through Rio de Janeiro airport, spent a couple of days there: went to the beach, had some caipirinhas, made some classic multipitch routes (i.e.: Italianos with secundo at "Pão de Açucar" and k2 at Corcovado). Now is time to get on a plane to Belo Horizonte. "BH" as it is mostly known is the capital of Minas Gerais state and it is the closest big city to Serra do Cipó. By plane it would take you 1 hour from Rio, or 4 to 5 hours by car.From the airport you must find your way to Serra do Cipó. The Airport is quite far from Belo H orizonte downtown, so you should look to go straight to Serra do Cipó. Unfortunately, there is no regular transport between the airport and the village, you should take a cab (which would cost around 45 dollars) or try to arrange a pick-up service with your lodging choice. Also, you can rent a car at the airport, the main rental company from Brazil is called "Localiza". Having a car at the village/crag is helpful, it will make your life much easier to move around between the rock->supermarket->restaurants->sleeping place; and also to visit some touristic points such as waterfalls.
The most commonly lodging places for climbers are.
- Abrigo G3 (camping and rooms) - http://abrigog3.blogspot.com/
- Mandalla (only rooms, each day it is less focused on climbers) - http://www.espacomandalla.com.br/
- Abrigo Cipó (rooms, very beatiful place) - http://www.abrigocipo.com.br/
- Refugio São Francisco (rooms, very nice and friendly place) - https://www.airbnb.com.br/rooms/16669931
- Refugio Árvore do Viajante - no website yet - Contact the owner: Tom Gomes gomes.tom@gmail.com celphone: +55 31 996494243 ; for lodging and pick-up service at the airport. Here you can camp and rent rooms. The owner is a very nice guy and the place is very nice!
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Climber: Tamires Vargas
Route: Maria Bonita 7b+
Sector: Cangaço / G3 / Serra do Cipó
Photographer: Alexandre Ferreira (xande.bh on instagram)
Comment: That's a beautiful shot from Tamires making her way through the open handed overhanging roof of the classic rout Maria Bonita.
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Regarding food and supplies, that's another strong point from Serra do Cipó. In the main street you can find several restaurants of all prices and types: pizzas, sandwiches, snacks and Brazilian food (rice, beans, meat and salad). Also you can find at least one good supermarket with all supplies you need.
There are two places that you cannot miss during your stay: first one is the "Açaí da Serra", this is a little kiosk at the main restaurants square where you can find an outstanding "Açaí", this is a typical ice-cream very very tasty, refreshing and nutritive. It`s perfect for a post-climbing relax... Most of the climbers spend some time there after a nice day at the rocks. Another place that you can`t miss is the pizzeria Berttucci, a cozy rustic house in the first roundabout. The pizza that has the name of the house is a masterpiece.
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Climber: Patricia Antunes
Route: Coliseu 8a
Sector: Coliseu / G2 / Serra do Cipó
Photographer: Alexandre Ferreira (xande.bh on instagram)
Comment: Beautiful colors and forms on the high quality overhanging challenges of the Coliseu/PCC sectors.
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General Information
After you're settled up, the fun is ready to begin at this beautiful crag, surrounded by a tropical forest which provides cool shadows the entire year.You can climb at Serra do Cipó at any season; the annual temperature varies between 10ºC to 35ºC, from November to March is the hottest and rainiest period, the rest of the year it rains quite a little and from June to the end of August is when the cold weather helps the crimps to glue on your fingers.
You can encounter walls facing every direction, thus, you can climb under shadows all day long the entire year. It`s just a matter of learning how to run from the sun, or run to the sun if you want a tan.
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Climber: Vinicius Wilson
Route: Morfina 7c
Sector: Lamúrias / G3 / Serra do Cipó
Photographer: Alexandre Ferreira (xande.bh on instagram)
Comment: This movement is a classic! The dino to the three finger cup hold is awesome.
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From the village, depending on where you`re staying, you can easily access the crag by foot. Abrigo G3 and Mandalla are located really close to the rock: less than 1km. You may also try to rent a bike from the locals. From the parking lot at the road to the rock it is aroud 10 to 40min, depending on which crag you`re heading into. Most part of the trails are under tree's shadows and not too steep.
Understanding the crag
The best way to get around the crag is acquiring the guidebook from Serra do Cipó. In 2015 was released a Portuguese/English guidebook from the authors Wagner Borges, Eduardo Barão and Felipe Belisário. You may get it through the internet http://www.companhiadaescalada.com.br/pt/guia-de-escaladas-da-serra-do-cipo/ or at some of the local climbing lodges mentioned on the previous sector.
The crag is divided in 3 main groups: G1, G2 and G3; this last one is the most famous, it gathers many of the classic routes and it's where you shall spend lot of time. Each group is subdivided in sectors, with around 10 to 30 routes each. Serra do Cipó has now around 400 routes cataloged, it may looks few compared to places such as: Siurana, Kalymnos, Gorges du Tarn and so on, however, this Brazilian rock paradise can drive you throught limestone's journeys you still don't know exists.
The material necessary to climb would be around 15 to 20 quickdraws and, due to the several 35 meters routes, a 70 or 80 meter rope is the best choice. You won't need any friends or nuts, except for one famous route: "Lamúrias de um Viciado"; which I'm going to explain latter.
From here on I will give a small introduction of each one of the most important sectors and routes. Keep in mind that all words here are based in a personal point of view, it's not a general rule.
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Main routes:
The crag is divided in 3 main groups: G1, G2 and G3; this last one is the most famous, it gathers many of the classic routes and it's where you shall spend lot of time. Each group is subdivided in sectors, with around 10 to 30 routes each. Serra do Cipó has now around 400 routes cataloged, it may looks few compared to places such as: Siurana, Kalymnos, Gorges du Tarn and so on, however, this Brazilian rock paradise can drive you throught limestone's journeys you still don't know exists.
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Climber: Sandro de Almeida
Route: Black Sabbath 7c
Sector: Casa Amarela / G1 / Serra do Cipó
Photographer: Alexandre Ferreira (xande.bh on instagram)
Comment: Winter climb at Cipó is like that: cool breeze, no rain, dry vegetation and crimp's grip!
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The material necessary to climb would be around 15 to 20 quickdraws and, due to the several 35 meters routes, a 70 or 80 meter rope is the best choice. You won't need any friends or nuts, except for one famous route: "Lamúrias de um Viciado"; which I'm going to explain latter.
From here on I will give a small introduction of each one of the most important sectors and routes. Keep in mind that all words here are based in a personal point of view, it's not a general rule.
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Climber: Gilberto Silva
Route: Sinos de Aldebaran 7b+
Sector: Sala da Justiça / G3 / Serra do Cipó
Photographer: Alexandre Ferreira (xande.bh on instagram)
Comment: That's the most famous sport climbing route from Brazil. It is an incredible 45 meter climb with lots of styles mixed, and distant protections. It's a great mind challenge and a remarkable experience for every climber.
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G3
Sectors Lamúrias and Sala da Justiça
Main Routes of Lamúria's Sector:- Dilúvio de Sancho Pena 6c/6c
- O dia em que a terra parou 6c/6c+
- Lamúrias de um viciado 6c/6c+
- Libera o cliente 7b/7b
- Morfina 7c
- Tick-Tack 8a+
Main Routes of Sala da Justiça Sector:
- Heróis da Resistencia 8a
- Super Heróis 8a+
- Sinos de Aldebaran 7b+
- Ética decomposta 7a+/7c+
- O inquilino 7c
Let's start with the most important sectors of Serra do Cipó: Lamúrias and Sala da Justiça. They come together because they are really close to each other; Lamúrias sector is the rock wall that guides you towards the amphitheater we call "Sala da Justiça". It is the first piece of rock that your eyes will be laying on, because it is on the main track, and is visible right after the small forest you cross by foot. The landscape is just impressive (see the first photo in the beginning of this post).
In these sectors you're going to find long routes in a pleasant area to belay, rest and have good conversations at the base. At Sala da Justiça you may also climb during rainy days, the amphitheater has a partial roof due to the overhanging huge walls that surround it.
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Climber: Maíra Villas Boas
Route: Linha da Vida 8a+
Sector: Sala da Justiça / G3 / Serra do Cipó
Photographer: Alexandre Ferreira (xande.bh on instagram)
Comment: This is one of the great hard challenges offered at Sala da Justiça. Maíra is one of the greate names of the female climbers from Brazil.
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Sector: Lamúrias and Sala da Justiça / G3 / Serra do Cipó
Photographer: Tamires Vargas
Comment: This image shows the first sight your eyes are going to see after you walk through the track's forest. Such a beauty!
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Climber: Gilberto Silva
Route: Sinos de Aldebaran 7b+
Sector: Sala da Justiça / G3 / Serra do Cipó
Photographer: Alexandre Ferreira (xande.bh on instagram)
Comment: Gilberto going through the limestone journey. The entire wall to his right belongs to the 50meter height routes from Sala da Justiça. What an experience my friend! The photo was taken on the belvedere that you can get by foot, going through the thundercats sector. |
The beginning of Lamúrias wall is an 35 meters limestone tower striped with the orange, grey and black colors which are the trademark of the rock there. The first 3 routes are some 6c/6c+ that are a masterpiece, we call them "the trilogy", composed by the routes "Lamúrias de um Viciado - 6c+", "Dilúvio -6c" e "O dia que a terra parou - 6c". You cannot miss them.
"Lamúrias de um Viciado" is one of the most important route of Serra do Cipó. Besides it beautiful shape and height, it is historically relevant, belonging to the group of the first routes opened. It gathers some of the old school iron balls style: spaced protections (not even close to what it used to be when opened) and a middle sector with a crack that you have two options: put and friend or hold your breath and go. It's not a hard move regarding strength requirements, but is technical and scaring; a fall there is definitly not wanted.
In general, the protection pattern at Cipó looks like Siurana. Some spaced bolts, especially on the older routes, but nothing too risky.
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Climber: Claudia Heringer and Alexandre Fei
Route: O dia em que a terra Parou 6c+ / Lamúrias de um Viciado - 6c+
Sector: Sala da Justiça / G3 / Serra do Cipó
Photographer: Alexandre Ferreira (xande.bh on instagram)
Comment: Climbing these routes at the sun set is lifechanging (we call that "climbing at the magic hour".
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Climber: Pedro Robles
Route: Super Heróis 8a+
Sector: Sala da Justiça / G3 / Serra do Cipó
Photographer: Alexandre Ferreira (xande.bh on instagram)
Comment: That's Pedro high on one of the most famous routes from Brazil. Super Heróis is the highest route from Sala da Justiça, you really get out from the top point of the amphitheater. An unique experience.
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Calada da NoiteMain routes:
Besides mentioning only two routes here, Calada da Noite is a very well frequented sector. It has three seven grade and three six grade routes that are very nice. Also the base is very good for talking and having a good time.
The route "Na calada da Noite" is one that you cannot leave behind. It is beautiful, imponent and when you lay your eyes on it you just think: Ohh I got to climb that!
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Anfiteatro and Caverna do Dragão Sectors
Main routes:
- Jonny Quest - 6c
- Mr. Hyde - 7b+
- Vingador - 7a+
- Demônio das Sombras - 7a
- Presto - 7b+
- Hank - 7c
Anfiteatro is a comfortable hall that leads you towards one of the borders of the climbing zone which we call Caverna do Dragão. The name is in memory of a classic cartoon of the 90's. This sector is very specific. The routes are not very high, around 18 meters each, but they are so technically demanding that you should spend some time there, learning some tricks of how to climb without using brute force.
This sector is famous for its vertical to slightly slab walls, with many options of holds and foots but all of them in the wrong direction. Lots and lots of fat pinches and slopes. It is defnitely a technical climbing school.
There you have many options in the 6's and 7's grades. The rout called Jonny Quest is really famous; it is a perfect sustained 6a until the penultimate bolt. The last two meters requires all your technical ability, concentration and faith to hold tight on very small crimps, move your feet up and go to the salvation jug. It is a classic and very funny route.
On the left side of Jonny Quest you`re going to find the "Mr. Hyde - 7b+" - what a challenge my friend! - It will require all you core strength and perseverance.
Passing the narrow corridor you enter on the "Caverna do Dragão" sector. There you should do at least the route called "Vingador 7a+".
Anfiteatro is a comfortable hall that leads you towards one of the borders of the climbing zone which we call Caverna do Dragão. The name is in memory of a classic cartoon of the 90's. This sector is very specific. The routes are not very high, around 18 meters each, but they are so technically demanding that you should spend some time there, learning some tricks of how to climb without using brute force.
This sector is famous for its vertical to slightly slab walls, with many options of holds and foots but all of them in the wrong direction. Lots and lots of fat pinches and slopes. It is defnitely a technical climbing school.
There you have many options in the 6's and 7's grades. The rout called Jonny Quest is really famous; it is a perfect sustained 6a until the penultimate bolt. The last two meters requires all your technical ability, concentration and faith to hold tight on very small crimps, move your feet up and go to the salvation jug. It is a classic and very funny route.
On the left side of Jonny Quest you`re going to find the "Mr. Hyde - 7b+" - what a challenge my friend! - It will require all you core strength and perseverance.
Passing the narrow corridor you enter on the "Caverna do Dragão" sector. There you should do at least the route called "Vingador 7a+".
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Climber: Tamires Vargas
Route: Mr. Hyde 7b+
Sector: Anfiteatro / G3 / Serra do Cipó
Photographer: Alexandre Ferreira (xande.bh on instagram)
Comment: This is one of the most technical challenges of Serra do Cipó. Lots of core strength and exact movements needed. It's a gemstone.
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Climber: Carlos Magno
Route: Dr. Jackyl
Sector: Anfiteatro/ G3 / Serra do Cipó
Photographer: Alexandre Ferreira (xande.bh on instagram)
Comment: Good choice of a technical 6c route with a bouldering start.
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Climber: Paulo Cizoto
Route: Hank 7c
Sector: Caverna do Dragão / G3 / Serra do Cipó
Photographer: Alexandre Ferreira (xande.bh on instagram)
Comment: in this picture you can clearly see all the open handed holds and the foot options. The position of Paulo at the image tells exactly what you need to solve these challenges.
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Climber: Raquel Coutinho
Route: Jonny Quest 6c
Sector: Anfiteatro / G3 / Serra do Cipó
Photographer: Alexandre Ferreira (xande.bh on instagram)
Comment: Raquel is going through the friendly part of the classic rout Johnny Quest. A nice challenge which gives you a slap in the face at the end.
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Sombras Sector
Main Routes:
This is one of the most important sectors of Serra do Cipó. It is under shadows almost 100% of the time, the entire year, that's where its name comes from (sombras=shadows), it is the perfect spot for hot days. There you may find one or another nice 6 grade routes, but the best ones are on the 7's and 8's grades.
The route "Sombras Flutuantes 7c+" is a masterpiece from mother nature. You start in a 5grade slab unprotected ramp, and then you enter in a sea of good but open handed holds, in a slightly overhang wall. You go paddling till you get to two big slopes, where you have to "rest" before you combat a unique v6 boulder that will take you to the final jug in the end of the wall.
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Cangaço Sector
Main routes:
- Sexto sessentão 6b
- Maria bonita 7b+
- Lampião 7c
- Cabra da Peste 8b+
- Peixeira 7a+
- O Cravo e a Rosa 6c+
Cangaço gathers some special routes. You have a very good example in the 6th grade: "O cravo e a rosa - 6c+" is something that you should not miss, but the gemstones are right in the entrance of the sector, where you have two beauties that comprehends everything about climbing: boulder problem at start, technical vertical in the middle and a final challenge of open handed holds in a overhanging roof. I'm talking here about two routes: "Maria Bonita 7b+" and "Lampião 7c". They are on a 30 meter wall that will certainly impress your eyes.
In this sector you may also find the rout called "Sexto Sessentão 6b". This must be presented here because it is a nice journey in a more mountaineering style. It's a 60 meters route that leads you to a nice belvedere. To climb it during sunset is a privilege. Many people like doing it because It's a great climbing experience in an accessible grade.
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Climber: Alessandra Giordano
Route: Maria Bonita 7b+
Sector: Cangaço / G3 / Serra do Cipó
Photographer: Alexandre Ferreira (xande.bh on instagram)
Comment: Such beautiful lines at Cipó's rock! This rout comprehend all climbing styles: bouldering start, technical middle sector and open handed overhanging final! You cannot miss it.
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Ninhos Sector
This sector must be presented because of one singular route: "Ninhos - 6b", which is very special in the crag history. It is a good and old 6 grade route that represents well the climbing style of the area. You should start from here in your first visit. To access the base of "Ninhos" you have to free climb a 4 slab sector.
The sector is located in the main track, turning right 20 meters after the entrance to the sector "Lamurias". There are some other good routes, this is a good spot especially for beginners.
Ninhos Sector
This sector must be presented because of one singular route: "Ninhos - 6b", which is very special in the crag history. It is a good and old 6 grade route that represents well the climbing style of the area. You should start from here in your first visit. To access the base of "Ninhos" you have to free climb a 4 slab sector.
The sector is located in the main track, turning right 20 meters after the entrance to the sector "Lamurias". There are some other good routes, this is a good spot especially for beginners.
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Climber: Cecilia Alves
Route: Ninhos 6b
Sector: Ninhos / G3 / Serra do Cipó
Photographer: Alexandre Ferreira (xande.bh on instagram)
Comment: One of the most classics and enjoyable routes of Serra do Cipó.
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Vale da Perseguida SectorMain Routes:
This place is quite singular. It is a narrow corridor (5-10meters) surrounded by 35 meter long walls. The sun hits only on the middle to the top; at the morning in one side, and at afternoon in the other side. The temperature is almost always pleasant or cold. Only in stuffy hot days it can get a little bit airless.
You can find here exceptional 6 and 7 grade routes that will suprise you. Lots of them require a lot of technical abilities and strong fingers for the crimps. You won`t find many overhang walls here.
The routes "Rasta Revolution" and "Vagabundos Nutridos" are in a different zone of the sector, not located at the corridor. They are on top of the Lamúria's summit, a climb there at sunset is highly recommended.
Spending a day at Vale da Perseguida is invigorating, the base is shady and peaceful and the climb/ are superb.
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Thundercats Sector
Main routes:- Bárbaros 6c+
- Exúvia 7b+
- Diversão garantida 6c
- Pó-Pô-Pó 6b
- Cheetara 7a+
- Escamoso 7b+
- Sequelados 7c+
Thundercats is at the second floor of Cipó's massif. Getting there is a nice tour. The main way to get there is passing through a cave that begins at the Sala da Justiça amphitheater and then go up to the upper part of the massif. If nobody tells you, you would never notice that you could go through that passage.
Once you're there you have many choices to have some fun. That`s a place for everybody, you have challenges from 6a to 8's grades. And most of them are 5 stars.
Many routes here are under shadows the entire time, and in some cases the sun hit on the last meters. Here you can access by foot a really nice belvedere, where you can see right in front of you the last parts of routes that begin at Sala da Justiça's. It's something remarkable to watch climbers going through those last movements... that overhanging wall at 45 meter high, requires all the confidence of the challengers.
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Vale Zen Sector
Main routes:
- Estriquinada 5b
- Arco do poder 8a+
- Nirvana 7b+
- Opinião pública 7b
- Avenida brasil 6b
- Flash back 6c
- Avenida das Torres 6c+
- Jequitibá 6c+
- Gigante pela Prórpia Natureza 6c
- Tequila Sexo e Marijuana 7c+
This sector is a long valley that begins close to the Thundercats area and goes down connecting to one of the "PCC's" sector trail. You have quite a lot of choices here, from some 5/6 grade to some of the hardest like Ham Salam, Ham Salam.
You find here really incredible 6c routes. All the 6c/6c+ mentioned above are great way to have an awesome climbing day. At night time you add to this a "Berttucci" pizza from the "Forneria Berttucci" pizzeria and you're going to start asking yourself if you shouldn't stay living at this place.
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Climber: Frederico Gonçalves
Route: Arco do Poder 8a+
Sector: Vale Zen / G3 / Serra do Cipó
Photographer: Alexandre Ferreira (xande.bh on instagram)
Comment: A good choice on the 8 grade.
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G2
Coliseu and PCC Sectors
Main routes of Coliseu and PCC sectors:
- Coliseu 8a
- Barão de rodellar 8a+
- Zé pequeno 7a
- Os intocáveis 8c+
- Pablo Escobar 7b
- Cartel de Medelin 7b+
- PCC 7c+
- Comando Vermelho 8c+
- Al Capone 8a+
"PCC" and Coliseu are two sectors really close to each other. They are both high classic spot especially for the strong guys. There you going to find a lot of 8 grade routes.. The shape and colors of the rock there are beauttiful.
It's not usual to have many people in this area. It is not much close to the most popular sectors at G3 and the track is a little bit more demanding. Besides that it does not offers many easier routes, so it naturally restricts its visits.
Good advice would be for you to chose a big challenge here and try it on those days, that you want more peace and quiet.
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G1Vale de Blair SectorMain routes:
When you think that Cipó's has already shown everything of its power, you should go visit this place. You don't even need to be a climber to be astonished about that stone stadium in the heart of the massif. It has its own microclimate, It's like a natural air conditioning system. You find there beautiful long walls, slightly overhanging in most parts. It's an unique place. The rout "10 Almas - 7b" is something you must do. It's a sustained path with such grate moves that everybody is always belayed with that big smile and dumb face of the endorphin effect. OhShit that's great! |
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Vale do Papagaio Sector
Main routes:
- Entre ilhas 6c/ 6c+
- Gigantinho 6c/ 6c+
- Pai Coruja 6c/ 6c+
- Amor Incondicional 6c/ 7c+
- Gigall-in 7a/8b
Vale do Papagaio is a unique place at Serra do Cipó. You have a good concentration of top quality 6c/6c+ routes that will take you high. The main wall is quite high, and the most classic routes are always divided in two. The first parts are always around 6c grade, but two of them: "Amor Incondicional" and "Gigall-in" has a big surprise in the second part.
The place is located at the top of the rock massif, so, to get there you must face a steep track but not very long (20-25 minutes). It is under the shadows in the morning, but on winter days the sun almost doesn`t hit there, at least not very directly.
You should spend at least one day there, delighting in those long 6grade routes. That, combined with an Açai cream in a post climb break, will make disappear any trouble from your mind.
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Zuma Sector
Main routes:
- Nas Montanhas da Lua 6c
- Assombrolius Bicolius 6b
- Minha Amada Imortal 6c
Zuma sector is a place that suffered quite a bit with a crazy mining action that took place some decades ago. The rock massif has some scars there which now belong to It's history.
This sector is in a short walking distance if you park your car at the inn called "Pousada da Pedreira" owned by Dona Zulma.. Please, respect the inn propriety, you may walk thought there but in silence and in a nice behavior.
This area is usually receive few visitors, but it keeps some gemstones lime "Minha Amada Imortal - 6c".. Also it's a good place for 6 grade climbers and the sunset and views are beautiful.
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Climber: Claudia Heringer
Route: Nas montanhas da Lua 6c
Sector: Zuma/ G1 / Serra do Cipó
Photographer: Alexandre Ferreira (xande.bh on instagram)
Comment: Claudinha relaxing on a sunset climbing! good times!
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Final Considerations
This presentation has the purpose to show Serra do Cipó's climbing scene to the entire world. The author is a lover of the place and thinks that spreading information like this may help lots of other people to experience such great moments in life. And that's what life is about: strong good emotions, especially when shared with others.
All routes and sectors described here are just a part of the whole experience you can have at this place. In addition to that, close to Serra do Cipó you may find some other good climbing areas; for example "Conceição do Mato Dentro" which is a very nice bouldering place, and Tabuleiro: a huge waterfall surrounded by 200 meters walls which provide brave adventures for the traditional multipitch lovers.
You have also other smaller sport crags such as "Lapa do Seu Antão", "Sitio do Rod", "Gruta do Baú" and "Gruta da Lapinha" which are all in a 100km range. By car you can experience them all.
Hope to see you soon in our crags! Good winds and good climbs for all!
Author of the post: Gilberto Martins Assunção Valadares da Silva.
email: gilbertomavs@gmail.com
